{"id":864,"date":"2013-10-15T09:32:23","date_gmt":"2013-10-15T09:32:23","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/?p=864"},"modified":"2024-04-19T19:24:15","modified_gmt":"2024-04-19T19:24:15","slug":"erg-chebbi","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/?p=864","title":{"rendered":"Erg Chebbi"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>The last day of the trip began with a sunrise camel trek into the Erg Chebbi dunes for those willing to get up early enough to go. \u00a0After the rich experiences we&#8217;d been having with John and Eric, I was a little reluctant to go on the unabashedly-touristy sunrise trip to the dunes of Erg Chebbi. \u00a0So here&#8217;s my confession: I had a blast.<\/p>\n<p>I was not, for instance, looking forward to getting up at 4 to drive for an hour in a land-rover across the hammada (stony desert). \u00a0But the drive was less bumpy than I had feared, and it was undeniably atmospheric, to see loads of camels awaiting us, with the &#8220;blue men of the desert&#8221; costume adding a touch of color to the scene.<a href=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1249.jpg\"><br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-895\" src=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1249-300x243.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1249\" width=\"300\" height=\"243\" srcset=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1249-300x243.jpg 300w, https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1249-1024x830.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><br \/>\n<\/a>The blue outfits are pure window-dressing. \u00a0The Amazigh people of this region are not Tuareg (&#8220;blue men of the desert&#8221;): they just dress up for the tourists. \u00a0But they&#8217;re kind enough to help us dress up, too: arranging scarves into turbans and even bringing along a bag of extra outfits for any students who want to try them on.<br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1254.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-897\" src=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1254-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1254\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1254-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1254-768x1024.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Riding the camels through the dark, with the star-studded sky overhead was also intensely satisfying. \u00a0I thought it would be the best part of the morning, until the light started to work its magic:<br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1267.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-885\" src=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1267-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1267\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1267-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1267-1024x768.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Oh, the many shades of sunrise:<br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1276.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-886\" src=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1276-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1276\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1276-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1276-1024x768.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>And then there&#8217;s all the delight of the world&#8217;s biggest sandbox:<br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1299.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-888\" src=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1299-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1299\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1299-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1299-1024x768.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1296.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-887\" src=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1296-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1296\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1296-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1296-1024x768.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><br \/>\nWe were so taken with the sand and its subtle color changes that we almost missed the moment of the sunrise, which comes shockingly fast:<br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1320.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-898\" src=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1320-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1320\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1320-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1320-1024x768.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><br \/>\nThe guides had to call \u00a0to get our attention, and we shouted to the students, one of whom lifted Jeremy up in his own ritual greeting to the sun:<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1325.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-889\" src=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1325-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1325\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1325-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1325-768x1024.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Even Zo\u00eb felt the pull of the dunes:<br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1337.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-896\" src=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1337-186x300.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1337\" width=\"186\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1337-186x300.jpg 186w, https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1337-637x1024.jpg 637w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 186px) 100vw, 186px\" \/><br \/>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<p>But I&#8217;m glad to report that she came back to us, eventually:<a href=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1337.jpg\"><br \/>\n<\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1336.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-890\" src=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1336-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1336\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1336-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1336-768x1024.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>And yes, we were as taken with the camels as anyone is likely to be, despite our young friend Colm&#8217;s minute-by-minute warnings to Jeremy: &#8220;Does it hurt yet, Jeremy? It&#8217;s going to!&#8221; \u00a0(None of us found the ride as uncomfortable as we were warned it would be.)<br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1375.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-893\" src=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1375-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1375\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1375-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1375-768x1024.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1366.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-892\" src=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1366-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1366\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1366-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1366-1024x768.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><br \/>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<p>So, even if it seems a bit of a come-down, from the 12,000 camels of Ibn Battuta&#8217;s day to the \u00a0multiple camel caravans of the costumed and touristed sunrise,<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-894\" src=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1379-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1379\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1379-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1379-1024x768.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>the stars and the dunes were still far more exhilarating than we had dared to hope they could be.<br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1361.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-891\" src=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1361-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1361\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1361-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1361-1024x768.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The last day of the trip began with a sunrise camel trek into the Erg Chebbi dunes for those willing to get up early enough to go. \u00a0After the rich experiences we&#8217;d been having with John and Eric, I was a little reluctant to go on the unabashedly-touristy sunrise trip to the dunes of Erg &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/?p=864\" class=\"more-link\">Continue reading <span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Erg Chebbi<\/span> <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false}}},"categories":[6,9],"tags":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p4JDdJ-dW","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/864"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=864"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/864\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2851,"href":"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/864\/revisions\/2851"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=864"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=864"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=864"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}