{"id":978,"date":"2013-10-26T15:20:36","date_gmt":"2013-10-26T15:20:36","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/?p=978"},"modified":"2024-04-19T19:24:14","modified_gmt":"2024-04-19T19:24:14","slug":"meknes-and-monuments-the-mausoleum-of-moulay-ismail","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/?p=978","title":{"rendered":"Meknes and monuments: the mausoleum of Moulay Ismail"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>John keeps reminding us of the difference between the visual restraint of Alawite style as opposed to the decorative intensity of the Marinids, embraced and extended by the Saadian dynasty. \u00a0Remember that the Alawite dynasty came north out of the Tafilalt, where we saw some of that visual restraint at work. \u00a0Basing their power in their descent from Muhammed, the Alawites\u00a0eschewed exuberant design in order to\u00a0insist (as Muhammed insisted) on simplicity.<\/p>\n<p>This doorway into the courtyard of Moulay Ismail&#8217;s mausoleum certainly reminds me of the Qsar Al-Fidha down in Rissani:<br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/DSC07544.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-968\" src=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/DSC07544-168x300.jpg\" alt=\"SONY DSC\" width=\"168\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/DSC07544-168x300.jpg 168w, https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/DSC07544-574x1024.jpg 574w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 168px) 100vw, 168px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>The courtyard itself is similarly restrained, with only a zellij floor and a small strip of zellij along the bottom of the walls.<br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1508.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-961\" src=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1508-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1508\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1508-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1508-1024x768.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>The calligraphy here is one of the Alawi mottos:<br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/Screen-Shot-2014-01-16-at-2.43.08-PM.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-982\" src=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/Screen-Shot-2014-01-16-at-2.43.08-PM-300x194.png\" alt=\"Screen Shot 2014-01-16 at 2.43.08 PM\" width=\"300\" height=\"194\" srcset=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/Screen-Shot-2014-01-16-at-2.43.08-PM-300x194.png 300w, https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/Screen-Shot-2014-01-16-at-2.43.08-PM.png 687w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><br \/>\n<\/a>Al Aali Allah: God is very high (or superior). \u00a0The other two include the Baraka Muhammed added to the Bou Inania<br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/119px-Meknes_Medersa_Bou_Inania_Calligraphy.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-880\" src=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/119px-Meknes_Medersa_Bou_Inania_Calligraphy.jpg\" alt=\"119px-Meknes_Medersa_Bou_Inania_Calligraphy\" width=\"119\" height=\"120\" \/><br \/>\n<\/a>and &#8220;Al Afia&#8221; which means &#8220;Pardon&#8221; in fusHa, but &#8220;fire&#8221; in Darija. \u00a0(It&#8217;s written abundantly within the mausoleum, to ambiguous effect.)<\/p>\n<p>But here in the courtyard, one might say we find functionality in place of decoration: a fountain for ablutions, a sundial for timekeeping:<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1509.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-958\" src=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1509-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1509\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1509-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1509-1024x768.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>But let&#8217;s face it, you can only take restraint so far, especially when we&#8217;re talking about the final resting place of the man who (rather brutally) shaped the Maghreb into a modern nation.<br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1500.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-955\" src=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1500-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1500\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1500-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1500-1024x768.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><br \/>\nThe tomb itself, in a prayer space, is only\u00a0visible from a distance for non-Muslims, but the antechamber is gloriously wrought:<br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/DSC07563.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-967\" src=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/DSC07563-300x168.jpg\" alt=\"SONY DSC\" width=\"300\" height=\"168\" srcset=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/DSC07563-300x168.jpg 300w, https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/DSC07563-1024x574.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>The details are extravagantly beautiful:<br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1505.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-957\" src=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1505-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1505\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1505-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1505-1024x768.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><br \/>\n<\/a><br \/>\nAnd it&#8217;s hard to imagine a more intricately painted ceiling:<br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/DSC07567-Version-2.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-large wp-image-981\" src=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/DSC07567-Version-2-1024x311.jpg\" alt=\"SONY DSC\" width=\"604\" height=\"183\" srcset=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/DSC07567-Version-2-1024x311.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/DSC07567-Version-2-300x91.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 604px) 100vw, 604px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Apologies for the very blurry picture of one of the two grandfather clocks sent from Louis XV to Moulay Ismail.<br \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-980\" src=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/Screen-Shot-2014-01-16-at-2.09.56-PM-250x300.png\" alt=\"Screen Shot 2014-01-16 at 2.09.56 PM\" width=\"250\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/Screen-Shot-2014-01-16-at-2.09.56-PM-250x300.png 250w, https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/Screen-Shot-2014-01-16-at-2.09.56-PM.png 384w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 250px) 100vw, 250px\" \/><br \/>\nThe story that comes with them goes like this: Louis XV offered his sister to Moulay Ismail as as one of his\u00a0wives; when the sister was informed, she said there was no way she would go to Morocco. \u00a0In her place, Louis XV sent these two clocks, with a note saying that they would be more constant than his sister would have been.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/DSC07558.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-983\" src=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/DSC07558-300x168.jpg\" alt=\"SONY DSC\" width=\"300\" height=\"168\" srcset=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/DSC07558-300x168.jpg 300w, https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/DSC07558-1024x574.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Yet even in the midst of all this grandeur, there are designs that conduce to calm and simplicity:<br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/DSC07571.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-966\" src=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/DSC07571-300x168.jpg\" alt=\"SONY DSC\" width=\"300\" height=\"168\" srcset=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/DSC07571-300x168.jpg 300w, https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/DSC07571-1024x574.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><br \/>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<p>I love that green! \u00a0And I&#8217;m not the only one&#8230;<br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1506.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-1568\" src=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1506-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_1506\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1506-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/IMG_1506-768x1024.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>John keeps reminding us of the difference between the visual restraint of Alawite style as opposed to the decorative intensity of the Marinids, embraced and extended by the Saadian dynasty. \u00a0Remember that the Alawite dynasty came north out of the Tafilalt, where we saw some of that visual restraint at work. \u00a0Basing their power in &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/?p=978\" class=\"more-link\">Continue reading <span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Meknes and monuments: the mausoleum of Moulay Ismail<\/span> <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false}}},"categories":[7,3,9],"tags":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p4JDdJ-fM","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/978"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=978"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/978\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2858,"href":"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/978\/revisions\/2858"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=978"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=978"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/maghrebi-voices.swarthmore.edu\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=978"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}